elpais.com
Illegal Cattle Ranching Fuels Luxury Handbag Production: Amazon Deforestation Linked to Italian Tanneries
An Earthsight investigation reveals that illegal cattle ranching in the Brazilian Amazon, responsible for massive deforestation, including in the Apyterewa indigenous territory, is linked to two major Italian tanneries supplying leather to luxury brands like Fendi, Kering, and Chanel, highlighting the inadequacy of current sustainability certifications.
- What is the direct connection between the illegal deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon and the production of luxury handbags?
- The Brazilian state of Pará will host COP30 in November 2024, the first UN Climate Change Conference in the Amazon rainforest. Pará has lost nearly 18 million hectares of forest since 2001, an area almost twice the size of Portugal, with 90% of deforestation in 2023 attributed to illegal cattle ranching, according to Imazon. A new Earthsight investigation links this illegal cattle ranching to luxury handbag production.
- How effective are current sustainability certifications in preventing the use of illegally sourced leather in the fashion industry?
- Earthsight's investigation, using undercover work and satellite imagery, traces a supply chain connecting Brazilian frigorífico Frigol—accused of purchasing cattle raised illegally in deforested areas including the Apyterewa indigenous territory—to two major Italian tanneries, Conceria Cristina and Faeda. These tanneries supply leather to major luxury brands.
- What are the likely long-term consequences of the lack of traceability and regulation in the leather industry for both the environment and indigenous communities?
- Despite claims by some brands to have sustainable practices, the investigation reveals that certifications like the Leather Working Group's are insufficient to guarantee deforestation-free leather. The lack of comprehensive traceability, coupled with industry lobbying to exclude leather from the EU's deforestation regulation, highlights a systemic failure to address the environmental and social costs of luxury fashion.
Cognitive Concepts
Framing Bias
The narrative is framed to highlight the negative actions of specific companies and the luxury fashion industry's role in deforestation. The headline and introduction emphasize the connection between luxury handbags and illegal deforestation, setting a negative tone and focusing attention on the culpability of these actors. While it mentions some companies' responses, the overall emphasis is on the negative consequences of their practices.
Language Bias
The article uses strong language, such as "illegal," "robbery," and "exploitation," to describe the actions of companies involved in deforestation. While these terms accurately reflect the severity of the situation, they contribute to a negative tone that might influence reader perception. More neutral alternatives could include words like "unlawful," "land acquisition disputes," and "controversial practices." However, the language reflects the seriousness of the environmental and human rights violations which justifies its usage.
Bias by Omission
The article focuses heavily on the connection between luxury handbags and deforestation in Brazil, but it omits discussion of potential alternative materials or sustainable practices within the leather industry that could reduce reliance on unsustainable sources. While acknowledging the Leather Working Group certification's limitations, it doesn't delve into alternative certification schemes or industry initiatives aimed at improving traceability and sustainability. The lack of broader context on the leather industry's efforts to address these issues might mislead readers into believing that no such efforts exist.
False Dichotomy
The article presents a false dichotomy by implying that the only choices are either using leather from deforested areas or using plastic, ignoring other potential sustainable alternatives such as lab-grown leather, recycled materials, or plant-based alternatives. This oversimplification might limit the reader's understanding of the available solutions.
Sustainable Development Goals
The article highlights significant deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon, primarily due to illegal cattle ranching linked to the luxury leather industry. This deforestation contributes significantly to climate change by releasing carbon dioxide and reducing the Amazon's capacity to absorb it. The connection to luxury brands further emphasizes the global reach of this unsustainable practice.